Exploring Kathmandu

Yesterday, after an uneventful week in the office, I took my chance to go out and explore some of the tourist attractions of Kathmandu. Luckily, I had a partner for my adventure, Anisha, who recently arrived and will also be staying with my host family. Even luckier (for me), she speaks Nepali, although she herself is from India. Her internship is with a food company, where she works in the lab doing quality testing; her master’s program is in France and she will be in Nepal for about the same length of time as me. Even though I could feel a head cold coming on, I was determined to make the most out of the day. We headed out after breakfast to tour the old royal palace, site of the tragic and dramatic assassination of the royal family in 2001 by the crown prince- apparently, the source of his wrath was his parents’ disapproval of the woman he wanted to marry. The part of the palace where this took place was torn down, but the foundations are there for people to see. The rest of the palace was quite modern and most of the rooms were un-extraordinary. I did like the throne room, though. It featured a silver loveseat with carved silver snakes as the armrests. Curved columns reach up from each corner to the ceiling, where there is a painting of a different Hindu god or goddess. Unfortunately, cameras aren’t allowed inside, so the only picture I can share is the view from outside the gate.

Exciting, isn't it?

We walked next to Thamel, a popular area for tourists due to its many stalls and small shops selling pashminas, art, carved wooden knick-knacks, and jewelry. Walking around, we saw some interesting statues and an elaborate offering to a god whose name I did not catch.



After looking at an overwhelming array of items, we were eager to find food. We stopped for lunch at a Tibetan restaurant and consumed momos. I had heard of momos, the snack food of choice around these parts, but had not yet tried them.



Your basic dumpling, they hit the spot.


We also ordered an alcoholic beverage that Anisha had wanted to try, made with fermented millet and hot water that the waiter poured over it, instructing us to let it steep for two minutes. I had exactly one sip- not to my liking. Anisha did her best, but it was a large mug and the drink just got stronger as it continued to brew.



Eventually she gave up as well, and we moved on. Back in the shopping area, we perused some more and I bought myself a carved wooden elephant to add to my collection.

Next, we took a taxi to Bodhnath, Stupa one of the holiest Buddhist sites and one of the largest temples in Nepal. We walked around it, and then advanced up the steps to walk around the roof under numerous colorful prayer flags. The base of the temple featured prayer wheels and plants, and people praying. And lots of tourists wandering around. At the top, there are painted eyes looking in every direction.



After circling again on the part of the roof where it is permitted to walk, we went back down the steps and across the street to a beautifully painted building that featured what looked like a theater box, the better to see the top of Bodhnath.









This building had a lot of ornate paintings on doors and walls, and some architectural features like dragon heads that I really enjoyed.













At the very top were more people praying, and a better view of those eyes.









Our last stop of the day before returning home was Durbar Square in Kathmandu, where we walked around looking at temples, and saw the living goddess peek out her window. Called “Kumari,” she is a prepubescent girl from the Newari community who is worshiped by some Hindus and Nepali Buddhists as a manifestation of the divine female energy. She is believed to be the bodily incarnation of the goddess Taleju (also called Durga) until she reaches puberty. Then, she re-enters the mortal world and a successor is found. The current Kumari is only six years old. Her feet will never touch the ground while she is Kumari- when she leaves her quarters for ceremonial duties she is carried. We had just ducked into a small courtyard outside her residence when we heard she would be making an appearance, that we had to put away our cameras, and that it is customary to make a wish when she comes to her window. I turned around and suddenly there was a small crowd behind me, waiting to see her. Kumari was dressed in red, with heavy makeup on her eyes. Everyone in the crowd put their hands together in the Namaste gesture and bowed slightly as she watched us dispassionately. Then she turned away, and was gone. A blond woman remarked that the girl looked sad. I thought she looked bored. We each put a few rupees in the donation box and left to explore the square some more, then returned home.




On Sunday my cold was worse, so I stayed in. That, and it rained all afternoon. The day was taken up with reading a few books and having a nice nap before dinner, and then this morning it was back to work!